Caviar: A True Delicacy Book

You'd have to be very fortunate (read "rich") to be able to cook and eat your way through Caviar. These most exalted of fish eggs are perhaps only exceeded in price by truffles as a foodstuff. Aside from its sheer deliciousness, much of the aristocratic cachet of caviar seems to reside in the fact that it is really a by-product, the rest of the huge fish being thrown away (yes, some sturgeon is eaten, but still). This effect on the price is obvious; though there are reports of experiments in the USA whereby the eggs are removed from the fish by Caesarean section, one unfortunate female being subjected to this no fewer than seven times. But the fisheries are becoming exhausted, so this may soon be the only way to eat caviar with a clear conscience. Susie Boeckmann and Natalie Rebeiz-Nielsen are well-known names in caviar circles, their credentials second to none. Subtitled A Comprehensive Guide, their book begins with an exploration of the history of caviar and the various sturgeon fisheries around the world. Its compelling size--the largest species, the Beluga, can grow to 20 feet over a lifetime of perhaps 170 years--and hieratic appearance make the sturgeon an apt fish for ceremony: it has often been claimed as a royal prerogative. Ceremony, too, surrounds the preparation and tasting of caviar, fascinatingly described here. (The correct way to taste it is to eat a little from the back of your hand, between thumb and forefinger.) They conclude with a very generous selection of recipes ranging from canapés to full-blown entrees, all designed to showcase the qualities of the black gold. In most of these the caviar plays the role of garnish--the "Watercress Cappuccino with Caviar" is a particularly exquisite example. A number of recipes, though, use it freely and lavishly, including one that sums up the essence of the book, and of this amazing food, the creamy "Spaghettini with Caviar and Champagne Sauce", which the authors rightly describe as "stunning" in its combination of simplicity and utter luxury. --Robin DavidsonRead More