The Really Helpful Cookbook Book

In a crowded marketplace, facing competition from Nigella, Nigel and Jamie, media superstars all, cookery books are having to signal their virtues ever more desperately. Waving vigorously from the lists is Ruth Watson's The Really Helpful Cookbook, a volume hoping to be the one that the hesitant, reluctant or novice cook reaches for when fate requires them to take their place at the stove. They could do a great deal worse, though the bleak reality is that under the circumstances it will probably be Delia. Ruth Watson is an experienced chef, restaurateur and food writer with more than her fair share of attitude: she has produced a collection of stylish, eclectic, practical recipes designed to fit into busy lives. It deserves to do well, as it is chock full of wonderful things. Refreshingly, and unlike almost every other cookery writer, she divides her year only into winter and summer, giving for each a selection of starters, main courses, puddings, lunches and suppers. Here, for example, is a dish at once achingly fashionable yet comforting--Cod with Saffron Mash and Gremolata. Or what about Scallops with Sauce Vierge and Crisp Pancetta? Or Poached Strawberries with Five-Pepper Ice-Cream? These are seriously good things to eat. There is nothing difficult here, nothing pretentious, just fine eating. Ruth Watson's commentary is also to be relished, by turns wise, sporty and licentious. --Robin DavidsonRead More