Wind Waves: Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean Surface (Dover Phoneix Editions) Book

In this hardcover edition of a classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory offers extended discussions of the data requirements and the details of power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. While the discussions are centered on waves for clarity, once the techniques are understood, they can be transferred with profit to many other areas. After an illuminating introduction in which Professor Kinsman outlines the nature of waves and wave processes and methods of measurement and classification, he proceeds to a detailed examination of the topic, relying heavily on mathematical models. Throughout, the text is enhanced and clarified by 270 figures and illustrations, including 40 excellent black-and-white photographs, a special attraction of this volume since high-quality ocean photographs are often remarkably hard to find. Also appealing is Professor Kinsman's advice recommending that the student not rely solely on mathematical models and theory but that he go and look at the sea for himself. As the author states with characteristic wry perception: "We can form concepts in our minds and attach names to them. It is often very useful to do so, but there need not necessarily be anything observable in the sea that corresponds to the concept or the name." A helpful bibliography and indices by subject and name round out this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library. Unabridged Dover republication (with additional preface) of the work published by Prentice-Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J., 1965. Prefaces. Acknowledgements. Introduction. Indices. Bibliography. 40 black-and-white photographs. 213 figures. 17 tables.Read More